It's in San Luis Obispo. This establishment rambles around the corner of a renovated old office building on Higuera Street. The tea room holds the place of honor on the streetcorner proper, in a comfortable, old, high-ceilinged space with tall windows looking out on the streets. No booths--just real furniture--but high, deep windowsills double as good crowdwatching stations that look out on the streets on busy nights. There's a tiny but carefully stocked bar tucked in the inside corner. We spotted preferred comestibles, such as Boodles and Essencia.

To the right lies the cafe, which is heavily renovated and has a very clean, sharp-edged, modern decor. It's two floors high, with balconies open to the lower floor, and delves deep into the building. Well-executed accent lights spotlight walls and ceilings with bright, indirect fans of light. Again, no booths, just furniture.

To the left, facing on the lesser street, is a narrow little storefront that has been converted into a detached dining room with one giant, old trestle in it. Also reaching deep into the building, there's even room at the inside end for some comfortable furniture arranged as a small parlor. It's a great space for a private party.

We ordered a brunch in the tea room. My Companion had a tray of Those Little Sandwiches, darjeeling, and a cup of hot borscht, which had looked good on another guest's table. Crab salad and radish with cream cheese were the two winners. The smoked salmon with caviared cream cheese was a touch fishy, but I liked it a lot and didn't hesitate to help. The pickled herring was perfectly prepared, but we don't happen to care for pickled herring. The teapot was kept hot and served into a glass teacup of Russian design, in a gilt handle.

The borscht was hot, salty, just a touch sour, and got a big vote of approval from Texture Man for the shredded beets and other vegetables therein that were not oversimmered and were still crisp. The broth was purplebloody, opaque, and not thick in texture. A real winner.

I ordered a scrambled egg with shreds of smoked salmon and white onion, with perfectly fried potatoes on the side. Cut nickel-sized, crispy outside, tender inside, lightly spiced and not in the least greasy--but I'm pretty sure that they were fried, not broiled.

Our waitress, who doubled as our bartender, promised me a bloody Mary that would not be boring, and delivered. It was, however, a little too salty, and I was unable to finish its dregs, even with the dilution of the melted ice.

All in all, it was a delightful meal in a very nice space, and we agreed that we would not hesitate to return.