The Restaurant Pad Formerly Occupied by Cedar Salad, in Cedar Crest, New Mexico. Do you like a long menu? You'll love this place. A full page of seafood, a full page of dead cloven-hoofed animals, a full page of birds. Their wine list is growing, but their beer list is short. Soup and salad is always included, as are your choice of several veggies.

We ordered the Talus chardonnay 1996 from Sonoma. I lack the vocabulary, but it was a good wine. Our entrees, however, would have been better complemented by a more robust selection.

The house offered a lobster tail as a side dish. We split one as an appetizer. It was excellent.

Their soups are excellent. The beef and barley was fine; the beef was finely ground but not skimpy; the result was reminiscent of an oxtail base. The broth's consistency from the rendered barley was perfect. The clam chowder was even better.

The salads pass Mirhaxa's fork test, and are good. You get your choice from two grated sins to sprinkle on top.

Good warm bread.

Two and a half pound chunk of duck in a Grand Marnier, flamed at your table. 'Nuff said.

The rainbow trout, sadly, was kinda fishy. The "light, white wine cream sauce" was too healthy to mask it. Extra salt and lemon weren't enough to redeem it.

Baby carrots were good; unfortunately, the snap peas didn't. Guess they have to cater to different tastes on that side of the mountain.

Four courses and wine came out to $30 a head.